Matera

Karen and I went two days earlier than everyone else to stay in Matera. I wrote about it in one of the pre-trip posts. It's a fascinating place where every twist and turn in the narrow streets holds something of interest, even if it's wildflowers growing stubbornly from the side of an abandoned building.

Unlike Rome or even the seaside towns of Puglia, Matera retains a ruggedness that has not been entirely wiped away by the gentrification and tourism spurred by EU development grants or its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site. You find 1,000 year old churches carved in rock being run by indifferent private owners next to a cafe with modern lighting and dance music alongside abandoned sassi sitting on top of occupied sassi with laundry hanging out the window.

The Innocent and the Guilty

The words above the door, "Regia Corte", means King's Court. Our hotel renovated the buildings that used to house the court and turned the courtroom into a guest room. The doors on either side of the bed use to lead to stairways. After judgement, the innocent exited the courtroom on the right, the guilty on the left and took stairs down to the street below. The court sat across a large piazza and below the sassi on the opposite side. People watching could determine the outcome of cases by the stairs the parties used.

This is a view at dusk of some the Sassi Barisano of Matera. Notice how steep the grade is. We walked up from the lowest visible level to our restaurant. This was about halfway up (or Down!)

We left Matera and arrived at our next hotel, the Masseria Torre Maizza. Masseria are old fortified farms leftover over from Puglia's feudal past. Today, many of them are agriturismo or resorts:working farms that also serve as hotels, spas, golf courses etc.

The picture is a night view of one Matera's old churches, St. John the Baptist, my patron saint whose day is celebrated on my father's birthday and who was the namesake of my aunt, Sr. Battistina.

Matera is such a fascinating city. It is full of interesting side streets, surprises, etc. We went into an ancient church carved into the mountain. The church dates to the 11th century. Of course, it's a cave but the walls were painted and some of it remains.

My bags finally arrived and I changed clothes when I arrive at Maizza. Tomorrow, the riding starts.

Ciao.

We arrived in Matera. The picture to the left is our hotel! The picture above is our room! The picture on the top left is what you find around every corner in this mysterious town.

Bad news: my luggage did not arrive. I hope it shows up tomorrow because ... well, use your imagination.

Off to dinner. More tomorrow.

Ciao.